![]() This wasn’t the only honor she would receive from the French, as she was awarded the Order of Légion d’Honneur by former French President François Mitterand in 1989. Think of it as the most exclusive club for the most exclusive fashion designers, comprised of members like Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld and Schiaparelli. After taking the leap from costuming films, Mori became the first Asian woman to be admitted as an official haute couture design house to the Fédération Française de la Couture the official council of high fashion. She presented her first ever runway collection at New York Fashion Week in 1965 after a trip to Paris where she met Coco Chanel who personally encouraged her to take a real shot at ready-to-wear. Mori set up shop in Shinjuku in 1951 where hundreds of costumes for Japanese films would come to life. She ended up joining the female workforce during the war and got a taste of fashion from Europe when she saw army wives wearing designs inspired by the works of Christian Dior. She felt like an outcast wearing western clothes while many of her classmates wore kimonos to school. She grew up during World War II and later published work about it later. Her father was a surgeon who was very interested in all things fashion and culture. Hanae Mori Hanae Mori Haute Couture 1992 summer photo by Guy Marineauīorn in Yoshika in 1926, Hanae grew up in a very cultural household. She later would be referred to as Madame Mori. After seeing that production she decided to make the butterfly one of her signature motifs in her burgeoning clothing empire. So she decided to change the narrative on her own. She felt that the kimonos were not worn with the care, grace and respect that they would receive in Japan. At one production of the ballet, an audience member named Hanae Mori was unsatisfied with how her home country was being portrayed on stage. One example of this admiration of Japanese aesthetics without a true understanding of the culture behind it is Madame Butterfly – originally published as a short story by John Luther Long and later adapted into an opera by Giacomo Puccini, neither of whom had ever actually been to Japan themselves. But while the art coming out of Japan was often appreciated and admired, the asian artists themselves have not always been welcomed with such open arms. She joined Christian Dior and Karl Lagerfeld as a member of the Chamber Syndicale de la Haute Couture in 1977, when she also opened a showroom that was frequently visited by up-and-coming Japanese contemporaries like Kenzo Takada and the late Issey Miyake.European fashion designers have been inspired by Japan since it open its borders for trade in 1853. While one of the most prolific costume designers in Japan, working on hundreds of films such as Yoshishige Yoshida’s Farewell to the Summer Light, Mori never neglected her namesake label. ![]() ![]() It officially put her on the international map: Hillary Clinton, Nancy Reagan, and Princess Grace of Monaco all became clients in the years that followed. A visit to the atelier of Coco Chanel in 1960 solidified her passion for couture, and five years later, she mounted her first runway show (titled “East Meets West”) in New York. The designer then gradually made her way to Europe and the U.S. In 1951, she opened her first atelier above a noodle shop in Hiyoshiya, often dressing the wives of American soldiers in the wake of World War II. The Japanese broadcaster NHK reports that Mori, who was nicknamed “ Madame Butterfly,” passed away last week.īorn in Shimane, Japan in 1926, Mori attended a dress-making school after studying literature at the Tokyo Women’s Christian University. The first Asian woman to be formally accepted into the French world of couture, Mori juggled showing at Paris Fashion Week, crafting custom designs for clients ranging from Empress Masako of Japan to bank clerks and Japanese Airlines flight attendants, and designing costumes for hundreds of films over the course of her decades-long career. ![]() Hanae Mori, the pioneering couture designer known for her blend of Eastern and Western aesthetics and butterfly motifs, has died of natural causes at age 96.
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